“Friendly” isn’t usually the word that leaps to mind when you think of self-styled European coffee houses. But it’s the perfect adjective for the Benelux Café, a java joint that’s as comfortable as a well-worn hoodie.
Benelux Café draws a clientele ranging from chic moms to bicyclists to fedora-clad hipsters. The morning I visited, toddlers were playing hide-and-seek around the armchairs. A young woman typed away at a laptop, a beautiful spaniel at her feet. The baristas had stylishly gelled hair, but weren’t too cool to join the toddlers in their game. They knew all the moms’ names, and the kids’ as well.
Known for its Dutch and Belgian pastries, Benelux is also one of the few places around where you can get a Brussels-style Belgian waffle (or “wafel,” to use the Belgian spelling) with your espresso. And these aren’t your typical breakfast-buffet waffles. They have a crispy, almost crunchy, exterior that yields to a soft, buttery center. The powdered sugar they’re dusted with lends them a faint flavor of anise. They’re so good you could eat them plain, but you can also up the ante with Nutella, ice cream, bananas, strawberries, or other toppings.
I take my wafels with Nutella and ‘nanas.
Benelux serves Joe Van Gogh coffee, which is robust with a deep flavor. I tried “The Queen,” a blend of espresso, steamed milk, and honey. Though the honey lingered pleasantly on my palate after each sip, it felt like an afterthought, contrasting rather than blending with the coffee. But the java was high-quality, suggesting that Benelux’s other offerings might be better.
Alas, this sunny café is in Raleigh and I’m in Durham. Otherwise, I could easily see it becoming one of my regular caffeination stations. But I’ll be sure to return the next time I make the trip to the capital.
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