Franklin Street’s Mint doesn’t appear, at first glance, like a typical Indian restaurant: Its atmosphere is understated, with little more than Bollywood music playing in the background to clue you in as to what kind of cuisine it serves. But don’t let Mint’s gray walls fool you. Its cuisine boasts enough color for a raucous Hindu festival.
I ordered the non-vegetarian thali, a combination plate that’s a good way to sample a range of an Indian restaurant’s offerings. This one, featuring chicken tikka masala, lamb curry, tandoori chicken, naan, and jasmine rice, arrived on a plate with multiple compartments that resembles the ones used in school cafeterias.
But if my elementary school had served food half this good, I would have bought lunch far more often. The chicken in Mint’s tikka masala had plentiful flavor all on its own: a garlicky, lemony brightness with a whisper of masala spices. Combined with the sauce, which blended cream with zesty tomatoes and hints of coriander, it made for a multilayered and sophisticated dish.
The lamb vindaloo was likewise beautifully balanced and unusually bright-tasting for Indian food. The lamb was firm but not chewy, and only slightly gamy. I requested it “regular hot,” which turned out to be enough to make my nose run but not incendiary. It had a pleasant burn, but, since I’m a chilihead, I’ll probably go for “Indian hot” next time.
The thali came with pistachio kulfi, or Indian ice cream, for dessert. Denser than American ice cream or gelato, this sweet dairy dessert was slow to melt and almost gummy in texture. Its flavor was intriguing: a blend of rich cream, nutty pistachios, and a caramel note arising from its long cooking process. It was a refreshing way to end a spicy and satisfying meal.
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